Going natural (and natural hair) has its own unique vocabulary! Here is a handy glossary of natural hair language to make your life a little easier.
Acronyms
ACV: apple cider vinegar water mix to clarify and remove buildup on scalp and hair
CGM: Curly Girl Method
LOC Method: A hairstyling layering method performed in this order: Liquid/leave-in conditioner, Oil, Cream
LCO Method: Liquid/leave-in conditioner, Cream, Oil
LOG Method: Liquid/leave-in, Oil, Gel
LCG Method: Liquid/leave-in, Cream, Gel
LGO Method: Liquid/leave-in, Gel, Oil
LCGO Method: Liquid/leave-in, Cream, Gel, Oil
SOTC: Scrunch out the crunch or cast, meaning breaking the hard gel or mousse cast
STC or S2C: Squish to condish – squeezing leave-in conditioner into the hair to evenly coat the strands
TWA: Teeny Weeny Afro
Cutting
Big Chop: the process of going natural usually refers to transitioning from relaxed hair to natural hair. Some choose to cut off all their damaged hair when going natural
Dusting: trimming ends no more than a ¼ inch
Washing
Bowl Method: A technique to tighten up curls, with maximum hydration and definition. (YouTuber Jannelle O’Shaughnessy swears by it.)
Clarify: Using certain hair products to remove product build-up, dirt, and sebum that may be clogging hair follicles
Co-Wash (Conditioning Wash): Washing the scalp with a specially formulated conditioner instead of shampoo.
Curl Cast or Gel Cast: Helps protect and preserve the shape of your hair while it is drying. Imagine a piece of fried chicken, crunchy coating on the outside, but nice and juicy on the inside. Same with your hair.
Final Wash: Before starting the Curly Girl Method (CGM), you need to clarify and remove build-up on your scalp and hair with a sulfated (non-silicone-containing) shampoo.
Hygral Fatigue: When hair follicles are swollen due to excessive moisture.
Low Poo: A Curly Girl (CG) friendly shampoo that does not contain sulfates but instead contains gentle cleansing agents.
No Poo: Instead of shampoo, using conditioner to wash your scalp.
Pre-Poo: Applying protective, penetrating, natural oils to the hair before washing to prevent hygral fatigue and aid in detangling
Slip: How lubricated a conditioner makes your hair feel after applying. The more slip a conditioner has, the easier it is to run your fingers, a wide-tooth comb, or a brush through your hair.
Hair Types and Styling TechniquesÂ
Density: Hair density refers to the number of individual hair strands per square inch (or square centimeter) on your scalp. It’s a measure of how many hairs you have on your head. The average hair density is 100-200 hairs per square inch
Diffusing: Drying your hair with a diffuser
Hair Type: This refers to the natural shape, texture, and characteristics of a person’s hair. There are four main hair types (Type 1-4), each with subcategories (A-C)
Plopping: A way of wrapping your wet hair in a cotton t-shirt (dry plopping) or shower cap (wet plopping)
Porosity: Refers to your hair’s ability to absorb and retain moisture. It is determined by how open or closed the cuticles (the outermost layer) of your hair strands are
Praying Hands: A way of applying hair product by holding hair in between hands like you are praying to create curl clumps
Protective Styling: A hairstyle to prevent breakage and for protection of the hair; also for length retention. Examples include two-strand twists, flat twists, cornrows, braids, up-dos, weaves etc.
Raking: A way to spread product through the hair using fingers spread out like a rake
Roping: A technique to create curl clumps
Root Clipping: A technique to create volume at the roots
Sealing: Locking moisture into the hair with a sealing oil or butter
Scrunching Upward: A technique to create curl patterns
Stretching: The process of lengthening curls and prevent shrinkage by using twist outs or braids out
Texture: Hair texture refers to the thickness or diameter of individual hair strands. There are three main types of hair texture: fine, medium, thick/coarse
Twist Out: Two- or three-strand twisting sectioned hair using a hair butter or gel
Wash’n Go: Washing and styling the hair in the absence of a protective style
Protecting Curls Overnight
Buff: A sleeve of stretchy material to wear over the hair at night.
Pineapple: A way of protecting your curls at night with a top front ponytail.
Other Terms
Product Junkie: Someone who is always buying new hair products in search of the one that will work wonders on their hair
Protein Treatment: A protein treatment helps to rebuild the hair shaft from within to mechanically strengthen the hair, reduce breakage and improve hydration. Protein-rich deep conditioners or protein-reconstructing treatments can contain 5-25% protein.
Shrinkage: The process of curls tightening or compacting while drying giving the appearance of shorter hair. Compacted curls tend to tangle more.
